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Audio Discussions
Topic: The low-power SET and dead speakers

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Posted by Romy the Cat on 01-18-2009

We all know how low-power SETs sound driving low-sensitively ported speakers. The Morons feel that it they have “enough volume” then their SET is good to go. Of course it is not the case and low-power SETs shell not driver dead speakers.

However, I thinking among those lines… I have the Sun Audio 6E5P-2A3 amp. After I found out if it is worth for me to use 2A3 instead of a single stage Milq I would have no use from this amp. So, I am wondering if it is possible optimize the low-power SET in order to drive MiniMe. Look, the MiniMe will be around 94db sensitive, the listening room is small and it will be relative near filed. However I will have a full control over what MiniMe will be (drivers, crossovers, ports etc…) and what the SET will be. So, is it possible to design a tandem of low-power SET and little ported fart machine that would deliver more or less OK result? It might not be a perfect result but the MiniMe-level result if you know what I mean…

In this thread I will explore this opportunity and who knows I might end up with more or less acceptable design decisions for low-power SET to driver dead speakers.

The Cat

Posted by Stitch on 01-19-2009

My experience is limited, but I tried it a few times (300B, 845, OTL ...) with 8 ohm Speakers, 92dB and a crossover, which is simple and never got a result which was close to a high sensitive speaker (98dB ...), no breathing, no air, Headroom was limited....
I think, most High End freaks want to link expensive with expensive (for example Wilson + Lamm ML2.1).....I think, it can work but I cannot believe that it is really good.

Posted by Paul S on 01-19-2009

In my case, the Wright Sound WPA3.5s, with ~8 Watts on tap in A2, could not handle my 97 dB speakers; not because it was not loud enough, but because the distortion was too much of a factor too much of the time, and "bass" was bass-ically AWOL.  And you are essentially looking at 1/4 that efficiency/power (94 dB @ ~ 4 Watts)?  Wouldn't this pretty much guarantee the Dying Swan, at best?

Maybe if you will be wearing the M&Ms like headphones in a small room...

A popular alternative amongst the fringe-dwellers is PP DHT (like those by Alex, the Rusky designer at 3d-audio).  Then, there's parallel output...

Or, you might save time by bi-amping, or something akin to it involving split taps and bi-wiring?  At the least, the A2 option seems to make sense here.  Even though I do not believe it provides a "linear" doubling of acceptable output, still it imparts a better sense of dynamic ease over a more useable range, in terms of frequency range and SPLs.

While I don't have any strong urges at present to abandon the ML2s for flea power, I never did have problems with the un-stressed sound of the better flea amps I tried.  Stressed is another matter, however, and they are EASILY stressed, as you know.  Hell, my 97 dB "FR" speakers stress the ML2s!

I'll be perfectly happy (and happy for you) to be "wrong" (again...), but I'm guessing that if the M&Ms are otherwise "good enough", then you will clearly hear the stress as the little amps swoon while atempting FR @ 94 dB/W.

Best regards,
Paul S

Posted by Amir on 09-03-2019
I have this table mine for Push pull Amplifier and average room size 30 square metre. if you have any idea please let me know

The power is for less than 1% THD and around 8 ohm loudspeaker.

7.5w       101db
15w        98db
30w        95db
60w        92db
120w      89db
240w      86db
480w      83db

I think for single ended amplifier and larger rooms we need more power.

for Single Ended Amplifiers I think the Impedance curve is very important . complex load with large impedance variation is not good if we use Single ended amplifiers.
I think some loudspeaker company do not publish accurate sensitivity.

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